Coming Into Fashion
C/O Berlin
Germany
18 August – 4 November 2012
Curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer
Today, fashion photographers are exhibited in the most prestigious museums. Their photographs are sold by galleries and auction houses for considerable prices, and each year publishers release new books dedicated to the best of the genre. Iconic images by Edward Steichen, Erwin Blumenfeld, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts and many other fine practitioners have been exhibited extensively in solo and group shows.
The discovery of most of the biggest names in fashion photography can rightly be credited to the legendary publisher Condé Nast, as so many photographers’ careers were launched on the pages of his magazines – predominantly in his flagship, Vogue. During the past 100 years the publishing house has celebrated the world of fashion in all its spectacular incarnations. The first photographer hired by the company, in 1914, was Baron Adolphe de Meyer, followed in later decades by such luminaries as Edward Steichen, Man Ray, George Hoyningen-Huene, Horst P. Horst, Cecil Beaton and Erwin Blumenfeld. Since his earliest days as a publisher, Condé Nast was a gifted talent scout. By surrounding himself with great artists, he placed Vogue, in addition to his other magazines (most notably Vanity Fair and Glamour, as well as the foreign editions of Vogue), at the forefront of the photographic avantgarde. The Condé Nast studios in New York, Paris and London were laboratories of creativity, employing artists eager to capture and show off the gems of haute couture. Alexander Liberman, hired as Vogue’s art director in the early 1940s, kept pace with his talented image-makers. Such photographers as Irving Penn, William Klein, Helmut Newton and David Bailey were brought on board, and as with their predecessors from the inter-war period, their careers took shape and blossomed thanks to Condé Nast’s innovative and groundbreaking publications. This great tradition has carried through to present times. In New York, Paris, London, or Milan, Deborah Turbeville, Bruce Weber, Peter Lindbergh, Ellen Von Unwerth, Corinne Day, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Nick Knight, Tim Walker, Miles Aldridge, Sølve Sundsbø or Willy Vanderperre – to name a few – have likewise made their marks not only in fashion magazines but in the history of photography.
This exhibition, which brings together a selection of rare photographs and original magazines from the Condé Nast archives in New York, Paris, Milan and London, is the first project of this scope and magnitude to present early work by those who went on to become the biggest names in the history of fashion photography.
Other Locations
Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia, Milan, Italy
17th January – 7th April 2013
City Art Centre, Edinburgh, UK
15th June – 8th September 2013
Palais Galliera, Paris, France
1st March – 25th May 2014
Museum Bellerive, Zürich, Switzerland
July 11 – October 19 2014
Norton Museum of Art, West Palm Beach, USA
11th November 2014 – 22nd February 2015
Multimedia Art Museum, Moscow, Russia
27th March – 7th June 2015
Museo Franz Mayer, Mexico City, Mexico
29th July – 4th October 2015
Marco Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, Monterrey, Mexico
22nd October 2015 – 7th February 7 2016
Nexus Hall, Tokyo, Japan
18th March – 10th April 2016
Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art Annex, Kyoto, Japan
22nd April – 29th May 2016
Huashan 1914 Creative Park, Taipei, Taiwan
15th September – 27th November 2016
Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, Beijing, China
20th January – 5th March 2017
Artspace Mackay, Queensland, Australia
29th July – 22nd October 2017
Rockhampton Art Gallery, Queensland, Australia
29th July – 22nd October 2017
The Arts Centre Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
25th November 2017 – 18th February 2018